Tofining Up !
Last week-end, i had my very first surf session.. and
1- I didnt drown,
2- I didnt get cold despite the cold cold cold water (thanks to the wetsuit i had bought, booties, gloves AND hood)
3- Most important, i loved it, even though i managed to stand up on my board about 10 times in 2 days, and for less than 5 seconds each time...
But god, i know where i come from. Sailing since i was 5 maybe, snowboarding since i was 17 (!! Half of my life ?!), windsurfing for few years, rowing (sliding on the water as well) for many years.
How couldn't have surfed before ???
Ah oui c'est peut-etre pour ca en fait...
I had so much fun just to be in the water, to use my board as a bodyboard when i couldnt stand up but still surf on the waves, and to surf for 4 secondes and half when i could.
Tofino is the prettiest spot around, and it was actually the first time i was in Tofino other than Xmas. Although, it was grey all week-end, the light is just beautiful there.. The beaches are huge, surrounded by great forests...
We definitely had hard days : Huge breakfast at 8, in the water by 9:30. Hot tube at 11:45. Yummy lunch in town at 12:30 (at Sobo's : Cornbread, fish chowder, nuts and fruits cookie, goat chesse, beets and nuts salad, etc etc). Nap and surf movie in the afternoon. Surf Session 2 at 5/5:30 until 7:30. Hot tub. Great dinner and surf movie. Good sleep. Huge breakfast ...
My friend for the week-end !I'm in love with Tofino, and its spirit.
Surfers everywhere, dogs waiting on the beach, cats in the village, good food, native people trying to sell you crabs in the street.
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